How to Install Cabinets with Metal Studs

Installing cabinets on metal studs requires some special considerations compared to installing on wood studs. Metal studs are increasingly popular in construction because they are straighter, stronger, and more resistant to settling than wood. However, their thin profile and lack of wood grain can present challenges when securing cabinets and other heavy items. With the right preparation and materials, you can hang cabinets on metal studs securely.

Benefits of Using Metal Studs

Before getting into the installation process, let’s look at why metal studs are a good choice:

• Stability – Metal studs are less likely to bow, twist, or warp than wood studs. This allows for a flatter wall surface for installing cabinets and prevents future sagging.
• Strength – Metal is stronger than wood by weight. Metal stud walls can support more weight, allowing for heavier cabinet loads.
• Fire resistance – Metal does not burn, so metal framed walls have higher fire resistance ratings. This added safety is ideal for kitchens.
• Resists mold/pests – Metal studs will not rot, mold, or become infested like wood can. This helps walls stay in better condition long-term.
• Thinner profile – Metal studs take up less space, allowing more room for insulation and utilities inside the wall.
• Consistency – The factory-cut studs are all exactly the same dimensions throughout, so the walls are perfectly straight.

Challenges of Installing on Metal Studs

While metal studs have lots of positives, they present some unique challenges for installation:

• No wood screw backing – The thin metal provides less for screws to grip onto. Special fasteners or techniques are required.
• Hard on drill bits – Drilling into metal dulls bits faster than wood. Cobalt bits made for metal help.
• No wood filler – The gaps between studs are empty, so you can’t firmly screw into wood filler between them.
• Transfers sound – With no wood to dampen, metal stud walls transfer more noise. This could include bangs inside cabinets.
• Can’t alter studs – The metal pieces usually can’t be repositioned or ripped down like wood. The frames are very rigid.
• Need sharper tools – Dull blades are more likely to skid off track when cutting into metal. Sharp bits and blades are a must.
• Rigid support – The solid studs don’t flex when installing cabinets on them like wood, so precise measurements are important.

With extra care taken to accommodate these factors, none should prevent a successful installation.

Tools and Materials Needed

Installing cabinets on metal studs requires having the right supplies on hand:

• Safety gear – Work gloves, eye protection, ear protection, knee pads
• Level – A long, high quality level is vital for verifying flatness.
• Stud finder – An electronic stud finder locates studs precisely through the drywall.
• Hammer – A smooth face hammer for tapping fasteners gently without marring.
• Drill – A variable speed corded drill with clutch for driving self-tapping screws.
• Driver bit set – Hex and Phillips head bits for various screw types. Cobalt or titanium coated is best.
• Sheet metal bits – Special drill bits that cut through metal without excessive wear.
• Nibblers – Hand nibbler tool for cutting sheet metal when alterations are needed.
• Snips – Different types like straight, left, or right cutting for removing metal.
• Screws – Self-tapping metal screws in various diameters and lengths.
• Backing – Plywood strips or metal backing accessories for added screw support.
• Shims – Wood and plastic shims to level cabinets and fill gaps.
• Stud bar – A flat steel bar with holes used for locating studs.
• Flashlight – For peering inside cabinets or behind them during install.
• Tape measure – Essential for taking precise measurements. Get one with fractions.

Locating and Marking Studs

Locating the metal studs accurately is the first crucial step in the process:

• Use an electronic stud finder calibrated for metal to scan the wall and identify stud locations. Mark these lightly in pencil.
• Check the width between your marks – it should be a standard 16″ or 24″ on center depending on the framing.
• Confirm your marks are accurate by using a stud bar. Press it against the wall and look for when the bar contacts studs through the holes. Adjust markings as needed.
• Use a strong neodymium magnet to also find drywall screws or nails attaching the studs. Mark their locations.
• Tap along the wall while listening and feeling for solid contact over the stud.
• Look for slight drywall imperfections running vertically where studs may be. Use the stud finder to confirm.
• For cabinets with heavy loads like base units, locate the ceiling and floor tracks and mark their intersection points with studs.

Take the time to carefully find and mark studs. Missing one hidden behind a cabinet could cause collapse under weight. Outlining them now makes installation much easier.

Preparing the Wall

With your stud locations mapped out, next you can prep the installation surface:

• Ensure the wall is flat across the length of the cabinet run using a long level.
• Look for any protrusions, damage, or inconsistencies on the surface that may interfere.
• Measure from the floor and ceiling to ensure cabinets will have room to slide in under.
• Confirm you have adequate clearance depth from the wall for the cabinet boxes.
• Mark a level line on the wall for the top of the cabinets to align the hanging rail to.
• Apply painter’s tape along the stud marks to have clean borders to work within.
• Vacuum the wall thoroughly to remove any dust or debris.

Taking these steps first provides an ideal smooth, clean surface for the cabinet installation to follow.

Installing Wall Backing

With lightweight cabinets, you may be able to secure directly to the studs. But for medium to heavy cabinets, backing is advised to reinforce screw holdings:

Plywood Backing

• Cut vertical strips of 3⁄4″ plywood just narrower than the width of the studs.
• Pre-drill holes in the plywood aligned with the marked stud centers.
• Draw lines 16″ or 24″ out from your main installation line for where to place strips.
• Use drywall screws driven into the studs to securely mount the strips over them.

Metal Backing Accessories

• Look for specialty backing rails made of light gauge steel with pre-punched holes.
• These align perfectly on studs and act like thick steel washers for the screws.
• Self-tapping screws seat firmly into them without spinning freely or pulling through.

Added backing provides thicker material for cabinet screws to grab and also helps level uneven spots on stud faces.

Hanging Rail Installation

With the studs prepped, next attach a hanging rail for supporting the cabinets:

• Select a sturdy rail designed to span multiple metal studs and carry cabinet weight.
• Hold the rail against your level line and mark pilot holes at each stud location.
• Drill clearance holes through the rail at each mark using a stepped drill bit.
• Hold the rail in position and lightly screw at end studs first.
• Check level and plumb, then add remaining screws at each stud, securing the rail tightly.
• For long spans, use sheet metal screws into studs between the rail brackets for extra support.

The hanging rail must be perfectly level for proper cabinet installation. Take the time to verify this with a long level before proceeding.

Securing Cabinets to Studs

With the rail mounted, you are now ready to install the cabinets:

• Hang the cabinets onto the rail, with framework resting on the floor. Slide into position.
• Open doors/drawers to access the interior cabinet backs or frames.
• Drill pilot holes through the cabinet backs into the wall/backing at marked stud locations using cobalt bits.
• Attach cabinets to the studs using self-tapping sheet metal screws in those holes.
• A right angle drill allows easier access driving screws if space between cabinets is tight.
• Use trim head or pan head screws. Flat head can dent cabinet backs. Match screw color to interiors.
• Level cabinets side-to-side before final tightening. Shim as needed for perfect alignment.

Proper screw sizing, number, and placement ensures cabinets are firmly anchored to hold their loaded weight long-term.

Securing Fillers and End Panels

The finishing panels on cabinet ends also require secure attachment:

• Align filler strips and end panels in position on the ends.
• Drill clearance holes through the panels into the wall/backing at stud marks.
• Attach using trim head screws driven into the stud or backing at the top and bottom of each one.
• Place fasteners no more than 12″ apart vertically for solid attachment.
• Keep screws straight to avoid twisting the panels out of position as they are tightened.
• Set depth correctly to avoid driving screw heads too deep into the filler/panel material.

Taking care to mount the finish panels properly gives the entire installation a seamless built-in look.

Dealing with Limited Wall Backing

Sometimes lack of adequate backing prevents direct attachment:

• Toggle bolts installed into the empty stud cavities provide one solution. Close cabinet doors gently to avoid banging.
• Sheet metal screws driven at angles into the stud edges can work for lighter cabinets.
• Through-bolts with washers on both sides of a stud provide good holding power.
• Attach a plywood mount across several studs, then secure cabinets to it as if they were just wood studs.
• With concrete or masonry walls, use sleeve anchors secured into the material instead of just the studs.

While challenging, with clever indirect mounting methods you can still achieve solid cabinet installations onto metal stud walls in unique circumstances.

Insulating for Noise Reduction

The direct contact of cabinets on metal studs can transmit unwanted sounds:

• Line the inside back with mass loaded vinyl or Dynamat extreme to deaden resonance.
• Place sound damping pads under the base cabinets to absorb impacts.
• Use foam gaskets behind end panels and fillers to break vibration transfer.
• Fill all gaps around and behind cabinets with acoustic sealant to block flanking noise paths.
• Close doors and drawers gently and avoid slamming them when possible.

Careful soundproofing allows enjoying the advantages of metal studs without amplifying operational noise from cabinets.

Modifying Metal Studs

When existing metal framing must be altered to fit cabinets:

• Use a nibbler tool to cleanly cut away just a small section of stud for clearance.
• Protect wiring or plumbing in the stud before cutting. Avoid notching too deeply.
• Screw scrap pieces of stud to adjacent ones for reinforcement after cutting to shorten.
• Attach metal plates or wood blocking where studs were cut to span the gap.
• Widen narrow spaces between studs by screwing a wood spacer or metal strap alongside.

While not very flexible, metal studs can be modified as needed with care when required. The focus should be reinforcing the area surrounding any changes made.

Troubleshooting Tricky Situations

Despite best efforts, some unique challenges can come up:

• Uneven walls – Use shims under cabinets to compensate for dips or bumps in the wall surface.
• Studs off center – Slot the pilot holes in the cabinet hanging rail to adjust position.
• No backing – Toggle bolts or sheet metal screws at angles into stud edges provide alternate holds.
• Drywall cracks – Screws should still grab adequately unless cracking is severe. Anchor to solid areas.
• Studs too shallow – Attach support cleats to the side wall or floor to bear cabinet weight.
• Pipes/wires in way – Carefully notch studs to create clearance if absolutely necessary.

With smart adjustments, workarounds exist for any roadblocks that arise during installation on metal studs.

Finishing the Installation

Once cabinets are securely installed, a few finishing steps give a polished look:

• Seal any gaps between cabinets or surrounding walls with caulk. Smooth for a neat appearance.
• Attach door/drawer fronts and handles if not pre-installed. Adjust any hinges as needed.
• Attach integral appliances like refrigerators or ovens into the cabinet openings.
• Install countertops onto cabinets. Secure tightly from underneath up into the cabinet frames.
• Slide in any specialty storage accessories like racks, dividers, or organizational containers.
• Remove any protective peel coatings from doors and panels. Wipe down surfaces to remove dust.
• Touch up any small screw holes or nicks with matching cabinet finish paint.

Taking time on final details ensures your cabinets look and function flawlessly.

Summary of Installing Cabinets on Metal Studs

While requiring some specialized tools and techniques, installing cabinets onto metal studs is very doable with proper planning:

• Carefully locate studs and mark positions before starting. Verify with multiple methods.
• Check the wall surface for flatness and clearance obstructions before beginning.
• Reinforce the studs with backing rails or plywood to provide solid screw gripping.
• Mount the hanging rail perfectly level and aligned with stud marks.
• Drill proper pilot holes through the cabinet backs into the studs or backing.
• Use self-tapping metal screws sized and aligned correctly for each cabinet.
• Secure end panels and fillers tightly at multiple points to studs.
• Insulate for soundproofing and find workarounds for any framing challenges.
• Finish off with caulking, hardware, countertops and storage accessories.

With attention to detail, you can achieve results on metal as sturdy as on wood. Just allow time for precise marking and drilling, and your cabinets will align beautifully and function securely.

Frequently Asked Questions

What type of screws should I use for fastening to metal studs?

Self-tapping sheet metal screws usually provide the best grip. Look for ones with threads that go all the way up under the head to maximize holding power. Pan head, trim head, or flat head all work well.

Can I attach cabinets directly to metal studs or do I need backing rails?

For lighter cabinets under 30 lbs per foot, you may be able to attach directly to studs. But backing is recommended for medium or heavy cabinets for added support.

What should I do if there is no backing material installed on the metal studs?

You have a few options to reinforce the stud-only framing, such as using toggle bolts through the stud cavity, driving long screws at angles into the side of the stud, or installing sleeves anchored into the surrounding wall material.

How do I reduce noise transfer from cabinets into the metal stud walls?

Lining the cabinet backs with mass loaded vinyl or Dynamat dampens vibration. Foam gaskets behind panels also help. Fill gaps with acoustical sealant. Close doors gently.

Can I make alterations to metal studs if needed to fit cabinets?

While not ideal, you can carefully notch out sections using a nibbler tool. Be sure to reinforce the cut studs by fastening additional framing alongside. Avoid excessive cuts.

How do I ensure cabinets align properly across uneven metal studs?

Shim under cabinets where needed to compensate for dips or humps in the stud spacing or wall surface. Use slotted holes on the hanging rail to make adjustments.

Conclusion

Installing cabinets onto metal stud walls doesn’t need to be intimidating. While requiring precision and the right materials, the thin but very strong metal framing provides an ideal structure for anchoring kitchen cabinets securely. Adjusting technique to accommodate metal’s unique properties allows for fastening cabinets firmly that will last for many years of heavy use. Just take care to mark all stud locations precisely, reinforce with backing, isolate noise transfer, and work around any framing obstacles. With extra diligence taken during installation, metal studs offer superior longevity and safety compared to wood while still easily supporting beautifully functional cabinetry. Any home can benefit from the strength and fire resistance of metal stud walls, so learn proper methods to utilize them under cabinets for best results.